Eat This: Vegan GreenGO Taco Trio

A Flavorful Meatless Meal on Upper State Street

Vegan GreenGO Taco Trio

Matt Kettmann

Vegan GreenGO Taco Trio

Most honest taco lovers will admit that when it comes to heavily marinated fillings like al pastor and barbacoa, the spice-soaked flavors take precedence over the meat itself. Plus, when the tacos are loaded with extra salsa, onions, herbs, and so forth, the base protein is but a fraction of each bite. That’s why these styles are perfect vehicles for tacos made with fake meats, which is what the recently opened fast-food-ish restaurant Vegan GreenGO is serving on upper State Street.

On my first-ever visit, I went with a totally gluten-free taco trio ($10), trying two flavors made from soy — al pastor and chorizo — and then rounded out my trio with the barbacoa, which is made from the stringy, chicken-like jackfruit. They’re topped with pico de gallo, fresh spinach, jalapeños, onions, and your choice of salsa — I went hot red, medium green, and then chipotle made with cashew butter. Compared to meat tacos, the fake meats were a little curious texture-wise — the soy was a touch sandy, the jackfruit slightly creamy — but the flavors were spot-on, all running together in spicy harmony.

I washed them down with sips of hemp horchata and turmeric lemonade — Thursdays are 2-for-1 drink day, which makes the $4.20 price tag for a non-alcoholic beverage a little more digestible. I’ll be back to chow down a burrito, which two regulars seemed to be enjoying as I left, or the nachos, which is a leading choice according to online reviews.

3613 State St.; (805) 318-3161; vegangreengo.com